After nearly a month in Varanasi, Shivala Ghat remains my favourite place, especially a spot between an old tree and a red shrine next to a triangular hearth. I’m not sure who the main deity represented in the red shrine is, but suspect it must be some form of Shiva. Tucked into niches in the wall are six other deities, including the Lakshmi and Saraswasi you can see below. Today I met the priest who seems to live in a room next to the red temple (which isn’t more than five foot square) and he didn’t ask me for money. An encouraging sign, don’t you think?